@charset "UTF-8";
@font-face{font-family:Archive Serif;src:local("Baskerville");font-display:swap}
:root{--paper:#f1f0e9;--paper-light:#f9f8f2;--ink:#292d28;--faint:#73776c;--line:#cbcbbf;--green:#657253;--accent:#8e483c;--serif:"Archive Serif","Baskerville","Noto Serif SC","Songti SC",STSong,Georgia,serif;--sans:-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,"PingFang SC","Microsoft Yahei",sans-serif;--mono:"SFMono-Regular",Consolas,"Liberation Mono",monospace;--gutter:clamp(22px,4.2vw,76px)}
*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:88px}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--sans);font-size:16px;line-height:1.75;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}body:before{content:"";position:fixed;inset:0;pointer-events:none;z-index:20;opacity:.035;background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg viewBox='0 0 180 180' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cfilter id='n'%3E%3CfeTurbulence type='fractalNoise' baseFrequency='.85' numOctaves='3' stitchTiles='stitch'/%3E%3C/filter%3E%3Cpath fill='%23000' opacity='.5' d='M0 0h180v180H0z' filter='url(%23n)'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}
button,a,input,summary{touch-action:manipulation}a{color:inherit;text-underline-offset:5px}button{font:inherit;color:inherit;cursor:pointer}button,a{-webkit-tap-highlight-color:transparent}button:focus-visible,a:focus-visible,input:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--green);outline-offset:5px}button{border:0;background:transparent}img{display:block;max-width:100%}h1,h2,h3,p{margin:0}h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:400}button:disabled{cursor:default}a[target=_blank]::after{content:" ↗";font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.8em}.eyebrow{font:12px/1.5 var(--mono);letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase}.skip-link{position:absolute;top:-70px;left:12px;background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);padding:12px;z-index:100}.skip-link:focus{top:10px}
.site-header{height:65px;margin:0 28px;border-bottom:1px solid #96998f;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;position:relative;z-index:3;padding:0 20px}.wordmark{text-decoration:none;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:21px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.08em;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:19px}.wordmark span{border-left:1px solid #94978c;padding-left:19px;font:11px var(--mono);letter-spacing:.16em}.header-right{display:flex;gap:25px;align-items:center}.header-right a{text-decoration:none;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:.1em}.trip-dates{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:21px;border-right:1px solid var(--line);padding-right:25px}
.hero{overflow:hidden;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.hero-scene{height:clamp(410px,57vw,650px);position:relative;isolation:isolate;overflow:hidden}.masthead{position:absolute;top:35px;left:var(--gutter);z-index:2;pointer-events:none}.masthead .eyebrow{color:var(--faint);font-size:10px;margin-bottom:13px}.masthead h1{font-size:clamp(44px,6.5vw,103px);line-height:.98;letter-spacing:-.055em;text-shadow:0 1px 20px var(--paper)}.masthead h1 span{font-size:.5em;letter-spacing:.06em;display:block;margin-top:12px}.scene-paper{position:absolute;inset:0;overflow:hidden;transform-origin:50% 100%}.scene-paper img{position:absolute;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 55%;mix-blend-mode:multiply}.scene-paper::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(115deg,var(--paper) 0%,transparent 29%);pointer-events:none}#scene-exposure{filter:sepia(.6) saturate(.6);opacity:0;mask-image:radial-gradient(ellipse at var(--mx,70%) var(--my,50%),#000 0%,transparent 42%);transition:opacity .8s}.hero-scene.is-exposing #scene-exposure{opacity:.8}.scene-caption{position:absolute;right:var(--gutter);bottom:15px;display:flex;gap:16px;font-size:12px;align-items:center;z-index:2;padding:7px 12px;background:rgba(241,240,233,.9)}.scene-caption span:first-child{font:11px var(--mono);color:var(--faint);letter-spacing:.16em}.scene-compass{position:absolute;right:var(--gutter);top:30px;font:13px/1.25 var(--mono);text-align:center;transform:rotate(-12deg)}
.film-shell{background:#30322e;padding:20px 0;position:relative;box-shadow:0 6px 17px #292d2812}.film-shell:before,.film-shell:after{content:"";position:absolute;left:0;right:0;height:8px;background:repeating-linear-gradient(90deg,transparent 0 13px,#a3a49a 13px 20px,transparent 20px 29px);opacity:.9}.film-shell:before{top:6px}.film-shell:after{bottom:6px}.film-viewport{overflow:hidden}.film-track{display:flex;width:max-content;will-change:transform;gap:12px;padding-left:12px}.film-card{flex:0 0 auto;width:calc((100vw - 60px)/4);max-width:510px;min-width:240px;height:clamp(132px,12.4vw,202px);border-radius:2px;display:block;text-decoration:none;position:relative;overflow:hidden;background:var(--paper);outline-offset:-4px}.film-card.is-active{box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 3px var(--green)}.film-card img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;mix-blend-mode:multiply;transition:filter .8s,transform 1.3s;filter:grayscale(1);opacity:.86}.film-card:hover img,.film-card:focus-visible img{filter:sepia(.45) saturate(.6);transform:scale(1.045)}.film-card:before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(120deg,rgba(249,248,242,.92),transparent 65%);z-index:1;pointer-events:none}.film-label{position:absolute;top:13px;left:20px;z-index:2;display:flex;flex-direction:column;line-height:1.5;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:21px}.film-label small{font:12px var(--mono);margin-bottom:4px}.film-arrow{position:absolute;right:18px;bottom:7px;font-size:26px;z-index:2}.projection-controls{height:69px;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;padding:0 var(--gutter)}.text-control{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:13px;font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.08em;padding:8px 0}.text-control:hover{color:var(--green)}#play-symbol{font-size:23px;min-width:19px;line-height:1}.scroll-cue{font-size:13px;text-decoration:none;letter-spacing:.14em;display:flex;gap:12px;align-items:center}.scroll-cue span{font-size:21px}.plate-edition{font:10px var(--mono);letter-spacing:.17em;color:var(--faint)}
.site-footer{padding:50px var(--gutter);border-top:1px solid var(--line);display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:30px}.site-footer a{font:27px var(--serif);text-decoration:none;display:flex;gap:25px}.site-footer p{font-size:12px;color:var(--faint);margin-top:12px;letter-spacing:.05em}.site-footer>div:last-child{text-align:right}.site-footer>div:last-child>span{font:23px var(--serif)}.site-footer .text-control{font-size:11px;color:var(--faint)}#toast{position:fixed;bottom:28px;left:50%;transform:translate(-50%,15px);background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);padding:10px 22px;font-size:13px;z-index:50;opacity:0;pointer-events:none;transition:.25s;max-width:90vw;text-align:center}#toast.is-visible{opacity:1;transform:translate(-50%,0)}dialog{background:var(--paper-light);color:var(--ink);border:1px solid var(--line);padding:35px;max-width:min(520px,90vw)}dialog::backdrop{background:#292d2855}dialog h2{font-size:28px}dialog p{font-size:14px;margin:14px 0}dialog textarea{width:100%;min-height:150px;font:15px/1.7 var(--sans);background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);padding:12px}.dialog-close{position:absolute;right:12px;top:6px;font-size:28px}.noscript-note{padding:25px;background:var(--paper-light)}
/* Itinerary: one day, one reading column, details at the point of use. */
[hidden]{display:none!important}html{scroll-padding-top:0}.journey{scroll-margin-top:0}.day-nav{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:15;background:rgba(241,240,233,.97);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:26px;padding:0 var(--gutter);backdrop-filter:blur(14px);height:76px}.nav-mark{font:16px var(--serif);text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap}.nav-hint{font-size:12px;color:var(--faint);white-space:nowrap}.day-nav>div{display:flex;align-self:stretch;gap:12px}.day-nav>div a{padding:0 24px;min-width:110px;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;text-decoration:none;font-size:15px;border-bottom:3px solid transparent;transition:background .2s}.day-nav>div a span{font:12px var(--mono);color:var(--faint)}.day-nav>div a:hover{background:#e6e7dc}.day-nav>div a.is-current{border-bottom-color:var(--green);background:#e3e5d9;color:#46563b}.day-nav>div a.is-current span{color:#46563b}
.day-section{max-width:1280px;margin:0 auto;padding:45px var(--gutter) 0}.focus-header .eyebrow{color:var(--green);font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.15em;margin-bottom:12px}.focus-header .eyebrow span{margin-left:14px;letter-spacing:.04em}.focus-header h2{font-size:40px;line-height:1.35;margin-bottom:12px;outline:none}.focus-header>p:last-child{font-size:16px;color:#5f6658;line-height:1.8}.route-overview{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:12px;padding:23px 0 25px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font-size:13px;color:#565e4f}.route-arrow{color:#939c85;font-size:16px}.focus-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 270px;gap:65px;padding-top:30px}.key-reminders{display:flex;align-items:start;gap:22px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:0 0 25px;margin-bottom:31px}.key-reminders>span{font-size:12px;white-space:nowrap;color:var(--green);padding-top:4px}.key-reminders ul{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;font-size:14px;line-height:1.9}.day-postcard{position:sticky;top:106px;align-self:start}.day-postcard>img{height:200px;width:100%;object-fit:cover;mix-blend-mode:multiply;filter:grayscale(1);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.postcard-caption{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:16px;margin-top:14px;line-height:1.7}.postcard-hint{font-size:12px;color:var(--faint);margin-top:25px;line-height:1.9}.geography-note{font-size:12px;margin-top:20px}.geography-note summary{cursor:pointer;list-style:none;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding-bottom:7px}.geography-note img{margin-top:14px;width:100%}.geography-note p{font-size:10px;margin-top:8px}.compact-timeline{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}.route-stop{display:grid;grid-template-columns:81px minmax(0,1fr);gap:25px;position:relative;padding-bottom:28px}.route-stop:before{content:"";position:absolute;left:86px;top:8px;bottom:-7px;border-left:1px solid var(--line)}.route-stop:after{content:"";position:absolute;left:83px;top:8px;width:7px;height:7px;background:var(--green);border-radius:50%}.route-stop:last-child:before{bottom:calc(100% - 10px)}.stop-time{font:13px/1.6 var(--mono);padding-top:3px;color:var(--green)}.stop-heading{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:9px;flex-wrap:wrap}.stop-heading h3{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:19px;font-weight:500;line-height:1.55}.stop-summary{font-size:14px;line-height:1.9;color:#626857;margin-top:6px}.stop-badge{font-size:10px;border:1px solid #c2c7b7;line-height:1.4;padding:3px 6px;color:#68745a;white-space:nowrap}.checkpoints{display:flex;gap:6px 14px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:11px;font-size:12px;color:#566644}.checkpoints span{border-left:2px solid #9fae8b;padding-left:8px}.stop-actions{position:relative;margin-top:13px}.stop-details>summary{list-style:none;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:14px;font-size:12px;color:#596749;cursor:pointer;padding:3px 0;min-height:30px;border-bottom:1px solid #bac3ad;max-width:calc(100% - 65px)}summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}.details-symbol{font-size:17px;line-height:1}.stop-details[open]>summary .details-symbol{transform:rotate(45deg)}.map-link{position:absolute;top:4px;right:0;font-size:12px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--faint);padding:2px}.pullout-sheet{border-left:2px solid #b2bea2;background:#e9ece0;padding:22px 22px 20px;margin-top:15px;animation:sheet-reveal .24s ease-out}@keyframes sheet-reveal{from{opacity:0;transform:translateY(-5px)}to{opacity:1;transform:translateY(0)}}.detail-step+.detail-step{margin-top:21px;padding-top:18px;border-top:1px solid #cbd2bf}.detail-step h4{font-weight:500;font-size:13px;line-height:1.8;margin:0 0 6px}.detail-step h4 span{display:block;color:var(--green);font:11px/1.8 var(--mono);margin-bottom:3px}.detail-step p,.practical-note{font-size:13px;color:#606951;line-height:1.9}.inline-link{display:inline-block;font-size:12px;margin:12px 0 0}.practical-note{border-top:1px solid #cbd2bf;margin-top:16px;padding-top:14px}.inline-booking{font-size:13px}.booking-heading{margin-bottom:12px}.booking-heading strong{font-size:17px;line-height:1.5;font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:400;display:block}.booking-heading span{font-size:11px;color:var(--green)}.inline-booking>p{color:#5f6952;line-height:1.9}.dishes{padding:12px 0}.dishes span{display:block;font-size:11px;color:var(--green);margin-bottom:3px}.booking-actions{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px 20px;align-items:center;margin-top:4px}.booking-actions a{font-size:12px}.copy-button{font-size:12px;background:#526443;color:#fff;padding:9px 13px}.copy-button:hover{background:#3b4c31}.english-note{margin-top:14px}.english-note summary{font-size:12px;cursor:pointer;color:var(--green)}.english-note p{font:12px/1.9 var(--mono);margin-top:10px;color:#5f6755;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.booking-caution{font-size:11px;margin-top:15px;color:#79816c!important}.choice-caption{font-size:12px;color:#657353;line-height:1.8;margin-bottom:13px}.branch-buttons{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:8px}.branch-buttons button{border:1px solid #b6c1a9;text-align:center;padding:10px 8px;font-size:13px;line-height:1.5}.branch-buttons button[aria-pressed=true]{background:#617450;color:var(--paper-light);border-color:#617450}.branch-buttons button small{display:block;font-size:10px;margin-top:3px}.lunch-options{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.choice-result{font-size:12px;color:#63784d;line-height:1.9;margin-top:14px}.choice-result:empty{display:none}#lunch-booking{margin-top:20px;padding-top:17px;border-top:1px solid #cbd2bf}.local-plan{margin-top:20px;padding-top:16px;border-top:1px solid #cbd2bf}.plan-choice{display:flex;align-items:start;gap:9px;font-size:12px;cursor:pointer;line-height:1.8;margin:12px 0}.plan-choice input{flex:0 0 auto;width:16px;height:16px;accent-color:var(--green);margin:3px 0 0}.is-omitted .stop-badge{background:#e0e4d5}.day-extra{border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);margin:10px 0 0;font-size:13px}.day-extra>summary{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;cursor:pointer;padding:17px 0;color:#667159}.day-extra>div{padding-bottom:20px}.day-extra article{margin:15px 0 25px}.day-extra h3{font-size:20px;margin-bottom:9px}.day-extra article p{font-size:13px;color:#68705d;line-height:1.9}.day-extra a,.day-extra ul{font-size:12px}.verification-inline{font-size:12px;color:#68705d;border-left:2px solid #b3bea1;padding-left:12px;margin-bottom:18px}.next-day{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;margin:30px 0 40px;font-size:13px}.next-day a{text-decoration:none;color:#4c6140;min-height:35px;display:flex;align-items:center}.itinerary-footnote{max-width:1280px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 var(--gutter) 42px;font-size:11px;line-height:1.9;color:var(--faint)}
@media(min-width:1800px){.hero-scene{height:740px}.film-card{width:calc((100vw - 60px)/4);max-width:none}}
@media(max-width:1100px){.nav-hint{display:none}.day-nav>div{flex:1;justify-content:center}.day-nav>div a{padding:0 16px;min-width:90px}.focus-layout{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 230px;gap:35px}.day-postcard>img{height:160px}.focus-header h2{font-size:35px}.wordmark span{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.1em}.hero-scene{height:520px}.masthead h1{font-size:68px}.masthead .eyebrow{display:none}.film-card{width:calc((100vw - 36px)/3);min-width:220px;height:155px}}
@media(max-width:800px){.day-postcard{display:none}.focus-layout{display:block}.focus-header h2{font-size:32px}.nav-mark{display:none}.day-nav>div{justify-content:space-between;gap:8px}.day-nav>div a{padding:0 17px;min-width:0;flex:1;justify-content:center}.day-section{max-width:680px}.focus-layout{padding-top:25px}}
@media(max-width:700px){:root{--gutter:23px}.site-header{margin:0 18px;padding:0;height:59px}.wordmark{font-size:18px;gap:0}.wordmark span{display:none}.header-right{gap:15px}.header-right a{font-size:12px}.trip-dates{font-size:17px;padding-right:15px}.hero-scene{height:clamp(390px,107vw,535px)}.masthead{top:28px}.masthead h1{font-size:clamp(48px,12.5vw,76px)}.masthead h1 span{margin-top:9px;font-size:.5em}.scene-paper{top:88px;left:-38%;right:-24%;bottom:0}.scene-paper img{object-fit:cover;object-position:51% 54%}.scene-paper:after{background:linear-gradient(180deg,var(--paper) 0%,transparent 25%)}.scene-caption{font-size:11px;bottom:6px;right:15px;gap:9px;padding:3px 7px}.scene-caption span:first-child{font-size:9px}.scene-compass{display:none}.film-shell{padding:17px 0}.film-card{width:65vw;min-width:230px;height:158px}.film-track{gap:9px;padding-left:9px}.film-shell:before,.film-shell:after{height:6px}.film-label{font-size:20px;left:17px}.projection-controls{height:63px;gap:12px}.text-control{font-size:12px;gap:8px}.scroll-cue{font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.03em;gap:5px}.plate-edition{display:none}.day-nav{height:70px;padding:0 15px}.day-nav>div a{flex-direction:column;gap:3px;font-size:13px;padding:12px 8px 9px;line-height:1.5}.day-nav>div a span{font-size:11px}.day-section{padding-top:29px}.focus-header h2{font-size:29px;margin-bottom:10px}.focus-header .eyebrow{font-size:10px;margin-bottom:9px}.focus-header>p:last-child{font-size:14px}.route-overview{font-size:11px;gap:5px 9px;padding:18px 0;line-height:1.7}.route-arrow{font-size:12px}.key-reminders{gap:14px;padding-bottom:22px;margin-bottom:25px;display:block}.key-reminders>span{font-size:11px;display:block;margin-bottom:5px}.key-reminders ul{font-size:12px}.route-stop{grid-template-columns:58px minmax(0,1fr);gap:17px;padding-bottom:27px}.route-stop:before{left:63px}.route-stop:after{left:60px}.stop-time{font-size:11px;line-height:1.8}.stop-heading h3{font-size:17px}.stop-summary{font-size:13px;line-height:1.9;margin-top:5px}.stop-badge{font-size:9px;padding:2px 5px}.checkpoints{font-size:11px;gap:5px;margin-top:9px}.checkpoints span{padding-left:6px}.stop-actions{margin-top:9px}.stop-details>summary{font-size:11px;gap:9px}.map-link{font-size:11px}.pullout-sheet{margin-left:-10px;padding:16px 14px}.detail-step p{font-size:12px}.booking-heading strong{font-size:17px}.inline-booking{font-size:12px}.booking-actions{gap:13px}.copy-button{font-size:11px;padding:9px 10px}.booking-actions a{font-size:11px}.site-footer{padding:30px var(--gutter);gap:18px}.site-footer a{font-size:22px;gap:12px}.site-footer p{font-size:10px}.site-footer>div:last-child>span{font-size:18px}.site-footer .text-control{font-size:10px}.itinerary-footnote{font-size:10px}.next-day{font-size:12px}.day-extra>summary{font-size:12px}.branch-buttons{gap:6px}.branch-buttons button{font-size:12px}.branch-buttons button small{font-size:9px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*,*:before,*:after{animation-duration:.001ms!important;animation-iteration-count:1!important;transition-duration:.001ms!important}}
body.reduce-motion *{transition-duration:.001ms!important;animation-duration:.001ms!important}.touch-film{overflow-x:auto;scroll-snap-type:x proximity;scrollbar-width:none}.touch-film::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}.touch-film .film-track{transform:none!important}.touch-film .film-card{scroll-snap-align:center}.touch-film .film-card[aria-hidden=true]{display:none}.touch-film .film-track{padding-right:12px}
[data-clear-rain]{display:block;font-size:12px;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px;padding:6px 0;color:#6a725a}.rain-cruise-note{font-size:12px;color:#697854;margin-top:10px}.geographic-reference img{width:100%;margin:10px 0}
@media(max-width:700px){.stop-summary{font-size:14px}.stop-heading h3{font-size:18px}.stop-time{font-size:12px}.stop-details>summary{font-size:12px;min-height:40px}.map-link{font-size:12px;min-height:40px;display:flex;align-items:center;top:0}.detail-step p{font-size:13px}.checkpoints{font-size:12px}.key-reminders ul{font-size:13px}}